What better way to welcome in Spring and the clocks going forward than with a local cider in hand, basking in a golden sunset in one of England’s most beautiful and classic counties: Somerset.
When it was unclear what travel would still look like in 2022, we decided to maximise flexible working and take the opportunity to explore a little more of England. Setting up camp at a gorgeous AirBnb just outside of Wells, we spent 3 days exploring the nearby area.
Day 1: Glastonbury
Glastonbury town centre
Day 1 was a working day for us. Our AirBnb had brilliant and reliable WiFi, and the village it was situated in made for a nice lunchtime stroll.
Glastonbury Tor
When it hit 5pm, we high-tailed it over to Glastonbury to walk up Glastonbury Tor for sunset. Most will know Glastonbury because of the famous festival it hosts nearby. It’s a very pretty, very spiritual town, with lots of pretty buildings and street art. Most places were closing as we arrived, so we did not explore it to its fullest, but I imagine a stroll through the town centre would be very pleasant.
Glastonbury Tor is an iconic landmark, visible from all around, and holding a lot of meaning – read about its legends here.
Starting from the city centre, the walk took us an hour in total. It is a little steep in parts, but not too bad, and is dog-friendly.
Wells Cathedral
Day 2: Wells
Vicar’s Close
Oh, Wells. The key reason for our visit. A truly stunning city (England’s smallest city) – sort of a mix between Winchester and Oxford. Totally stunning and filled with history, it has fast become one of my favourite places. (Fun fact: it is also the film location for most of Hot Fuzz).
The Bishops’ Palace
Must-see things: Wells Cathedral, the Bishops’ Palace, Union Street, Vicar’s Close
Eateries & coffee: Strangers with Coffee, Wells Market (every Saturday), Pickwicks Country Kitchen, Rugantinos, the Greek Taverna, TwentyOne Cafe, Kitty Banks.
We also booked dinner at a pub called The Sheppey Inn in Godfrey – an eclectically decorated pub with local cider and live music – great fun and would recommend – but book a taxi!
Day 3: Cheddar & Cheddar Gorge
Checking out of our AirBnb as quick as our unadjusted body clocks would allow us (the clocks went forward the previous night), we booked breakfast at The Swan in Wedmore (lovely, great garden around the back) before heading onward to Cheddar Gorge.
Now. We did the Cheddar Gorge loop, and I must warn – it was pretty tough. It took us about 2.5 – 3 hours in total, has many steep parts, and the terrain is quite rocky. Totally worth it for the views, but just know what you’re in for ahead so you bring snacks and water with you!
We then had a late lunch at Cafe Gorge, which is really nice – would recommend, and is at the end of the loop (if you start at Jacob’s Ladder).
In January, I was invited down to stay in Milford-on-Sea. As a frequenter of this town’s beach in the summer months, I naturally was delighted to receive said invite so that I could explore a little more, and I am pleased to say that the town very much lived up to my excitement.
Views of the Needles & Isle of Wight
The town centre itself is relatively small, circling a very charming green onto which many of the shops and cafes look. Historically, Milford-on-Sea dates back to Saxon times, and is even recorded in the Domesday Book. That central village green was once ancient common land, and many of the old houses (now residential) such as the Old Mill, vicarage and manor, still remain today (in fact the Old Mill recently featured on Channel 4’s Extraordinary Extensions, having undergone serious restoration works).
The beauty of a weekend/short/long break in Milford on Sea is that there is as much or as little for you to do as you choose, and most activities are outside in the wonderful seaside air.
Where to Stay
Our little AirBnb hut
We were given a two-night stay in an Airbnb, which was an incredibly aesthetic little hut with an outdoor space, all necessary amenities, a very comfy double bed, and within walking distance of the town centre and beach. I would certainly stay there again, however if you are after a bit more space then you are not short of alternative AirBnbs, B&Bs, and a few hotels too, in the area.
What to Do
Walking routes around the town
Walks
Milford-on-Sea itself offers 3 different footpaths (see photo); the Clifftop route (taking you to Barton-on-Sea along the Hordle Cliffs), the Lymore route (which takes you inland towards Lymore), and the Keyhaven route (which takes you out along the peninsula to Hurst Castle) which forms part of the Solent Way where you can continue on to Lymington, Beaulieu, and beyond, all the way to Portsmouth! Have a look here for some more ideas!
Then there is, of course, the matter of the New Forest National Park being right on your doorstep too – click here to search for some of your many options.
Activities
Hurst Castle – an old artillary fortress built by Henry VIII and now an English Heritage site, Hurst Castle sits on the end of a long peninsula with lovely views of the Needles and Isle of Wight on the one side, and Keyhaven on the other.
Water sports – paddle-board, kayak, swim, windsurf, sail… Milford-on-Sea is a great base-point for all of these things, particularly because it is quite protected from the elements and not too windy. Bring your own, or hire equipment from the New Forest Paddlesport Company.
The beach huts along Milford-on-Sea’s beach are picture-perfect
Beach – If energetic water-sports are not your thing, why not sit yourself comfy on the beach, read a book, bring a flask or bottle of fizz, and watch the (water)world go by? The beach is a pebbled one, so deck chairs might be sensible, or you could do one better and hire one of the gorgeous beach huts for the day.
Bikes – hire bikes from New Forest Bikes and explore the areas surrounding Milford-on-Sea, including Lymington, the New Forest, and Barton-on-Sea.
Shopping – a small but noble offering, No64 Biscuit House is a beautiful homewares store and a double Muddy Stilettos winner, and Noah Valentines Antiques shop is a treasure trove tucked away off the main road.
Food & Drinks Scene
Rays Italian
DINNER
On our first night we had takeaway burgers and chips from La Perle, where you can also dine in. The burgers were fab and I’d like to return and eat in to try the rest of the menu. They also did great chunky chips (something I am passionate about!).
For our second night, our host booked us a table at Rays Italian, which is also a deli in the day (more on that below). The meal was absolutely excellent, really reasonably priced, and I would certainly go back again. My favourite plates were the arancini and the charcuterie platter (which was a special).
The Paddle on the Green
Some other places we were recommended include The Cave Wine Bar, The Lazy Lion, The Beach House, and Britannia Thai.
LUNCH
There are many lunch options, and something to suit all requirements. The Pickled Weasel offers quick options like pre-made sandwiches, sausage rolls and the like. The Paddle on the Green also offers some great light-bite and brunch options. Also pop by Rays Italian for a sit-down lunch menu or grab some bits from the deli and head to the beach!
Breakfast at The Paddle on the Green
BREAKFAST
We had our first breakfast in the AirBnb, but on our second morning we headed to The Paddle on the Green. This was by far my favourite eatery, and a very popular one with the locals and cyclists. The wait for the tables moves quickly, the coffee is excellent, and the food great – avocado on toast, granola bowls, pastries, etc. Delightful.
COFFEE
As mentioned above, The Paddle on the Green had brilliant coffee. Also check out the Coastal Bakery, and Rays Italian.
The picture-perfect Cotswolds is a firm favourite in our household. It’s just close enough for a day trip, or an easy weekend away, and even in bad weather it’s still utterly charming.
Although it feels like a bit of a trek, the nearest stretches of the Cotswolds are just over an hour away from Winchester (and even closer if you’re based in north Hampshire). Pootle up the A34/M4 and you’ll hit Cirencester (the “Capital” of the Cotswolds) in an hour and fifteen.
So if you fancy a beautiful day trip for some stunning scenery and sublime pub lunches, jump in your car and try these villages.
1. Castle Combe
When I think of the Cotswolds, I think of Castle Combe. The beautiful sandstone cottages, sweeping streets, and the tranquil river running by are just exquisite.
Castle Combe is proclaimed as one of England’s prettiest villages, as well as rising to fame through being a film location for some big tv/film hits, most notably Steven Spielberg’s War Horse, Downton Abbey, and Stardust.
The White Hart pub serves a great range of easy pub classics, including jacket potatoes, stews, sandwiches and pies. If you’re after something special, The Manor House Hotel has become a firm Insta-favourite for its sweeping, ivy-covered façade, or otherwise try The Castle Inn (opposite the White Hart) which is the sister Inn to The Manor House Hotel.
And for any Harry Potter fans, nip over to neighbouring village, Lacock, to visit Hogwarts, the home where Professor Slughorn pretends to be an armchair, and one of the Godric’s Hollow filming locations.
2. Bibury
Another contender for “prettiest village in England”, much of Bibury is protected by The National Trust, and for good reason. Arlington Row, which is the most photographed row of cottages in Bibury, dates back to the 1300’s, and you can even stay in one of them.
Grab a bite to eat at The Swan Hotel, which sits on the River Coln and is another Cotswolds Insta-landmark, again for its ivy-covered façade.
3. Poulton & Meysey Hampton
Ok, so whilst these are technically juuust outside of the Cotswolds, they’re both right on the edge and so sweet that they deserve a spot on this list. I’ve grouped them together because they’re a stones throw from each other and an easy walk between. Lunch at the Masons Arms, which sits on Meysey Hampton’s beautiful green, surrounded by Cotswold cottages. The green even has the old horse mount steps from time-gone-by that you can walk up.
4. Biddestone & Slaughterford
Just a 35-minute cross-country walk between each other, Biddestone and Slaughterford sit just across the Cotswolds border, and both are equally charming in aesthetic.
Biddestone’s White Horse pub is well regarded, or why not try The White Hart in Ford, and walk in a loop between Biddestone, Slaughterford and Ford.
5. Burford
Slightly larger than the previous 4 places, Burford boasts a much larger food scene and a small high street to boot. If you like antiques and homeware, Burford is the one for you.
Walk along the River Windrush towards Swinbrook on this scenic 6.5km walk before circling back to Burford for a well-earned pub lunch.
As a lover of history, York has always been on my list of UK places I’ve wanted to visit. When the pandemic meant that international holidays were out and UK staycations were in, I decided to jump on the opportunity to get up to York.
Some quick facts about York:
Population: around 210,000
Founded in: 71 AD by the Romans. After their fall, Anglo-Saxons lived there before being conquered by the Vikings who renamed it “Jorvik”, and so York got its name.
Top touristy spots: York Minster, The Shambles, Yorkshire Museum, Betty’s Tearooms, Jorvik Viking Museum, York Railway Museum, York City Walls
Excellent food/drink spots (there are so many but these are a few): Pairings Wine Bar, Partisan, Sapori, Brew & Brownie, Wheldrakes, Mannion & Co, The Dark Horse Espresso Bar, The Larder Club, Shambles Market
Great day trips: Whitby, Robin Hood’s Bay, Malton (food capital of Yorkshire), Harrogate, Yorkshire Moors, Yorkshire Dales, Haworth (birthplace of the Bronte sisters)
Tips:
Book everything that needs tickets in advance!
Check opening times – (e.g. the Bronte Parsonage Museum in Haworth is not open 7 days a week)
Get the Ringo app – easiest way to pay for parking
Get up early to experience York before the tourists – we arrived for 8am and got to have the Shambles, the Minster, and the City Walls all to ourselves!
Day 0.5: York
Coming from London, the drive to York took us about 5 hours (stops included), and could not have been easier . Just get yourself onto the M1 and drive.
Given how iconic it is to the city, we booked York Minster tickets for the afternoon. It is a beautiful building, and you can see the Doomstone there.
We then pulled up a chair at Sapori, which is a wine bar on the Shambles, and enjoyed wine and nibbles whilst watching the world go by.
Tip: If you get a lovely sunset, definitely go to York Minster. It is simply stunning.
Day 1: Day Trip to Malton, Robin Hood’s Bay & Whitby
I love a road trip. For me, there is nothing worse than coming away from a trip you’ve looked forward to for months, only to discover you missed half the good stuff!
Malton
Yorkshire is filled with gorgeous villages, towns and coastline. So if you don’t drive up, have a look at public transport or hire a car for the day and get out of the city.
We went for a loop from York to Malton to RHB to Whitby and back to York. We also chose the route that took us over the Yorkshire Dales (beautiful).
Malton – the food capital of Yorkshire, with a pretty centre. Lots of boutiques and antique shops, and some incredible food options. We ate at Lutt & Turner (incredible, highly recommend).
Robin Hood’s Bay
Robin Hood’s Bay – a picture-perfect coastal town. Gorgeous side-streets and idyllic houses, plus a long open beach and a coastal path.
Grab a drink from The Bay Hotel and listen to live performers, or go fossil hunting on RHB beach.
Whitby – a larger coastal town, Whitby is famous for its fish & chips and seaside activities and arcades. It is also overlooked by the eerily beautiful Whitby Abbey, an impressive ruin and English Heritage site.
Save your appetite for fish & chips (if only to fuel your Adventure Golf and arcade shenanigans on the pier), and then drive up to Whitby Abbey for views of Whitby and out to sea.
Day 2: York
Day 2 was a day focused on York’s food and history scenes. We got up early doors to see York without the hustle and bustle and tourists, grabbing a coffee and snack from Brew & Brownie to fuel us. It’s well worth it if you want some empty photos and prefer the quiet.
York City Walls
We grabbed an incredible breakfast at Partisan (book ahead, you won’t regret it), before walking the city wallsand along the river, and just generally wandering and doing a bit of shopping.
Next food-stop was Betty’s Tea Room. Every time we had walked past Bettys, the queue was round the corner, so you definitely, definitely, definitely want to book this one in advance! Bettys is famous for afternoon tea, and has become an unconditional requirement of a trip to York.
The Shambles
Because we hadn’t booked ahead, we weren’t able to get tickets to Jorvik or the Yorkshire Museum on the day, but, keen to learn some of York’s history, we were able to buy tickets to the York Dungeons on the day. Fun and scary at the same time, it’s a lighter way to absorb the history of York.
We rounded off our foodie day with an evening at Pairings. We had intended to only be there for one quick glass, but ended up staying for 4 hours! If you love wine and charcuterie, then do not miss this one.
Day 3: Harrogate & Haworth
Valley Gardens, Harrogate
We planned our route home to go via Harrogate and Haworth.
Harrogate also has a Betty’s Tea Room, excellent shopping, and the gorgeous Valley Gardens.
Haworth
Haworth is just lovely. A long cobbled high street with views across the valley and a fabulous mix of shops, Haworth shouldn’t be missed. If you are also a a literature-lover, then definitely visit the Bronte Parsonage Museum, and walk up to the Bronte Waterfall.
I was recently spoilt with a very special trip to Hay-on-Wye, a town that sits on the Welsh border, just west of Hereford. It reminded me a lot of a Cotswold town, with pretty stone buildings and narrow streets.
We spent 4 days there, arriving via Cardiff and driving through the Brecon Beacons (which were incredibly beautiful), but you can also drive via the Cotswolds so if you had longer, I think the perfect trip would be a few days in both areas.
Hay-on-Wye is known as “the town of books” and if/when you go, you will see why. Every other shop is a bookshop, or sells books (new and second-hand). It’s magical. There is also a plethora of homeware and antiques shops, and the food and drink scene is excellent too.
Day 1: Cardiff and Hay-on-Wye
If you’ve not explored Cardiff before, then I would highly recommend driving through this way on your way to Hay. Cardiff is a fantastic city, with excellent shopping, history, and things to do. It also has oodles of old arcades which are filled with independent eateries and shops.
I recommend these food places especially:
Wallys Deli in the Royal Arcade
Coffee Barker in the Castle Arcade
New York Deli in the High Street Arcade
Madame Fromage, also in the Castle Arcade
Cardiff is also not that far, taking around 2.5 hours from Hampshire, so you could just about make it a day trip.
If you have longer, I would also explore the Cardiff Central Market, and Cardiff Castle (free entry to the grounds only). The Cardiff Bay area is also excellent, and an easy train ride from Cardiff Central.
Our drive from Cardiff to our accommodation, Cynefin Retreats, took us around 1.5 hours, with wonderful scenery to admire along the way.
Day 2: The Brecon Beacons & Pen Y Fan
Pen Y Fan is the highest point in the Brecon Beacons, and much of the surrounding area is owned by the National Trust. The car park for the trek is back towards Cardiff, and it fills up very quickly, so definitely get there early. The walk is circular and well sign-posted, but the best tip is to start from the car park (the one with the toilets, not the other one), and go straight up anti-clockwise, rather than clockwise (the clockwise route is a much, much steeper climb!).
The loop took us about 2.5 hours (including stops for photos, naturally), so all-in from Hay, it’ll take around 6 hours, leaving you the afternoon to explore Hay some more (or recover!).
Day 3: Hay-on-Wye
You really are spoilt for choice in this wonderful town. For the vintage and book lovers, you can get lost for hours in the high street shops and arcades. My favourite was the Hay Antique Market on Market Street, which I spent a lot of time in (much to my non-vintage loving fiancé’s delight!).
Even if antiques are not your thing, there are a lot of other shops to dip in and out of (like Goosey Gander), as well as lots of food spots.
Our favourites were The Old Electric Shop, Eves, and The Granary but we felt like we barely scratched the surface of Hay’s food scene!
As it was our final night, for dinner we booked Chapters, which is a small and intimidate restaurant serving only local and seasonal foods, most of which is grown by the owners.
Chapters is inside an old chapel on Lion Street and serves a tasting menu of about 7 courses. It’s a fab way to taste local and fresh food, and I would definitely recommend it.
Day 4: Hay-on-Wye and Home
I always find that the places I love the most are the ones that leave you wanting more, where you feel as though you have only just begun to get to know them as you have to leave. Hay is definitely one of those places, and I have no doubt that we will return soon.
We visited Alresford last weekend, and had the luck of stumbling upon their bi-annual brocante and antiques market, hosted by ACVR events. Although we (and they) were nearly blown away in these uncustomary gale-force winds we’ve been having, there were some beautiful pieces and/or bargains (the joy of an antiques market is that the two are never mutually exclusive) for sale there.
I love having a mooch around a market, particularly when having a lazy weekend, so I thought I would make a list of some of the upcoming ones over the next few months.
Winchester
On the first Sunday of every month is the Antiques Market (it’s brilliant. You could spend a lot of time there).
On the second and fourth Sunday of every month is the Hampshire Farmer’s Market.
On the third Sunday of every month is the Art & Design Market.
I am biased, but Winchester is one of my favourite places. We are spoilt with inescapable history on every corner, independent shops and fantastic food options.
Southsea
Love Southsea Market hosts a fantastic market every two or so weeks. Stalls include street food, flowers, clothes and fashion, homewares and accessories, and jewellery.
Separately, there is also a farmers market on the third Sunday of every month.
Southsea is a lovely coastal town, east of Portsmouth (a little like Brighton & Hove twin together, so does Portsmouth & Southsea). It is full of cool eateries, coffee spots, and independent shops (and very lovely 4-storey townhouses looking out to sea).
Alresford/Alton/Petersfield
Alresford – Every Thursday, Alresford hosts their weekly market of local foods, ceramics and homewares. There’s lots to also explore around Alresford, including shops and walks, so it’s definitely worth a day-trip.
Alresford’s bi-annual vintage and brocante market that we stumbled upon last weekend is separately hosted by ACVR events. The next is on the 26 September. If you want to catch it sooner, head to Ringwood, Romsey or Bishops Waltham, or otherwise have a look here: Calendar of Events – Speciality Markets & Events (acvrevents.co.uk)
Alton – The pretty little market town of Alton hosts a weekly market on a Tuesday. The farmers’ market is also on, on 12 June, 17 July and 14 August, and the Hampshire farmers market on the second Saturday of each month. Alton is also a stone’s throw away from Chawton House, Jane Austen’s family home.
Petersfield – On every Wednesday and Saturday, the Petersfield market has a variety of stalls and is on between 8:30 and 3pm. The Hampshire farmer’s market is on there on the first Sunday of every month.
Ringwood
The Hampshire farmer’s market is held on the last Saturday of each month. There is also a weekly market every Wednesday selling local produce, crafts, clothes and plants.
On 3 July, 4 September, 6 November, and 4 December the ACVR vintage and antiques market we had the pleasure of visiting in Alresford today, will be at Ringwood.
Ringwood is another lovely Hampshire market town, close to beaches and the New Forest, with excellent eateries and independent shops.
Romsey
Romsey’s market is hosted every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday morning in The Cornmarket. Romsey has hosted a market for over 400 years, so although I have not visited this one, I imagine it would be a nice one to stroll through. Romsey is another town with some nice independent shops and cafes.
The Hampshire farmers market is also on, on the first Sunday of every month.
The ACVR brocante market is also here on 25 July, 17 October, and 28 November.
Bishops Waltham
The ACVR brocante market is also here on 18 July and 10 October. Bishops Waltham’s markets are sadly on hold at the moment, but is usually on Fridays.
I have not been to Bishops Waltham in a long time, but it’s on my list now that things are opening up. I have, however, heard that there is a Josie’s there and therefore I am convinced it will be a nice day trip. Bishops Waltham is nestled on the edge of the South Downs, en route to other towns and villages worth a visit, such as Wickham.
We recently did a day trip to Lyme Regis in Dorset, and really loved it! It is a something-for-everyone small seaside town two hours from Winchester.
It had real Cornwall-y vibes, and the drive itself is super pretty given that it crosses the New Forest, and the rolling hills of the Wiltshire and Dorset countryside (depending on your route).
Things To Do
Beach
Obviously there’s the sea! The beach has a sandy side and a shingle side, so it’s a win-win really. There were lots of cafes and stalls along the front for refreshments, and some watersports and equipment-for-hire places too.
Mini Golf & The Town Mill
There’s a great outdoor mini golf course set up the hillside that overlooks the harbour and sea.
The Town Mill is a converted mill turned art gallery and space for local artisans. There’s a pretty courtyard and a cafe selling locally sourced food.
High Street
The high street, is very small and there are not a lot of shops, but it’s definitely worth a mooch. There are some lovely (and fancy) homeware shops, and lots of vintage and antique stores too. We didn’t get to try it, but there was a queue out the door and down the street for Mulberry Manor bakery, so I can’t vouch for it, but it’s probably worth a try.
Walks& Heritage
The Jurassic Coast has many walking options, and also a lot of National Trust and English Heritage sites nearby.
Lewesdon Hill (National Trust) is the highest point in Dorset, providing views across Devon, Somerset and out to sea.
The East Devon and Dorset hills (both AONBs) and the Blackdown Hills are also in close proximity.
Food & Drink
Town Mill Bakery – situated down Coombe Street, and named after the Town Mill itself, Town Mill Bakery offers great breakfast and brunch options.
The Oyster & Fish House – if you love seafood, this place should not be missed. Lovely views over the sea, friendly staff, and excellent seafood and cocktails.
Swim – a good brunch and lunch spot, selling burgers, salad, as well as steak, fish and vegetarian options. It has a great cocktail menu too, with views over the beach.
Dottie Kitchen – another good lunch spot selling wraps, smoothies, salads and sandwiches.
Kiosk – right on the seafront, selling excellent ice cream and fair-trade coffee.
This week I was meant to be spending a long weekend in Bordeaux. We went two years ago, over this exact weekend, and loved it so much that we immediately booked to go again in March 2020. Of course Covid had other plans for us, so we optimistically booked to go again in March 2021… and here we are. Locked down and planning to go in March 2022 instead…! Obviously there are eleven alternative months in the year we could go, but there are several benefits to going in March.
Firstly, the weather (an excellent starting point for any holiday planning). Being in southern France, Bordeaux’s sunny skies and low-to-mid 20 degree temperatures towards the end of March were a much needed vitamin D boost after the long grey winter. We hired a soft-top Fiat 500 to get around, and it was warm enough to have the top down the whole trip. Pure bliss.
Secondly, March is a relatively quiet time to visit the wine regions of France. I do not count myself as a wine connoisseur, so if you are, then you are probably sitting there reading this and thinking that March is actually the worst time to go. The reason is, March is right before the Spring season begins. From late-April onwards, Bordeaux is jam-packed with festivals and fairs, starting with the annual Spring Fair (Printemps des Vins de Blaye) which showcases the new wines produced by the vineyards in and around Bordeaux (not to be confused with the larger festival in June – Fête Le Vin). However, for us, going out of season meant prices were (generally) lower and, in some cases, we had the place to ourselves.
If you are after a busier and vibrant city-break, June and September are both meant to be excellent months to visit the region. Either way though, Bordeaux has so much to see and do, excellent food, coffee, shopping, bars and restaurants, and is a city brimming with beauty and history (it is a UNESCO World Heritage site) that you would be hard pressed to not have a good time, no matter what time of year you went.
It goes without saying that when visiting the Bordeaux region, you visit St. Emilion. An easy and picturesque 45-minute drive from central Bordeaux, passing vineyard after vineyard, this beautiful and ancient town is full of romantic cobbled streets and, most importantly on a trip such as this, wine. St Emilion is one of the five key wine areas of the Bordeaux region (see map below for a breakdown of the five), and should not be missed. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
St. Emilion wineries create some of the most prestigious Bordeaux wines, so the town is on the expensive side, but it is well worth the trip. As well as a plethora of wine shops and cellars, there is also lots of history to be seen in St. Emilion, given that the town was first founded by the Romans and then later renamed after an 8th century monk, Émilion.
There are plenty of brasseries and tabacs to grab lunch and/or snacks, or, if you are after fine dining, then Michelin-starred Logis de la Cadene would be one to look into.
Having blindly purchased several bottles of red “because we met each other in 2011 so it must have been a good vintage”, we pootled back, soft-top down and hair flying everywhere, to our accommodation for the evening; Château Grattequina.
Staying in a chateaux was something we wanted to do because Bordeaux is home to so many. However, they are not the cheapest, so we only stayed one night at ours. We picked Chateaux Grattequina because it was on the outskirts of Bordeaux, situated right on the river, and had only just opened having been completely refurbished. It was also small, with only 9 guest rooms, with a simple but beautiful exterior. Parts of the grounds were still being tended to when we stayed, but the hotel staff could not have been friendlier, and the décor was lovely. The only point to be noted is that there is no alternative place nearby to eat, unless you want to drive into the city. So make sure you take this into consideration, or have a look at the Hotel’s menu before deciding what you want to do.
Activities: La Cité du Vin and north Bordeaux sight-seeing
After checking out of Chateaux Grattequina, we took the short drive into central Bordeaux. Our Airbnb was on a side street, off one of the main “Rues” of the city – perfect location for touristing, terrible location for driving. All I will say is, if you plan to drive into central Bordeaux, only hire a small car!
Our Airbnb was in one of the city’s many old stone buildings meaning temperatures indoors were a nice escape from the heat, and you couldn’t hear the hustle and bustle of the busy city.
As this was our first day, and first time, in the city we thought it only apt to make our first destination the wine museum – La Cite de Vin.
The museum is situated to the north of the center, on the river, and you can either walk along the promenade (but this is about 45 minutes) or take the tram. Book your tickets ahead, as this museum is always busy. This is a good starter for wine-novices like us, as it explains the basics of wine and also gives you a nice history overview of Bordeaux and its wines. There is also a room of wines from every country in the world, and the top floor gives you panoramic views of Bordeaux and a glass of wine.
Opposite the museum is Les Halles de Bacalan, where you can pick up fresh produce and/or enjoy a glass of wine in the sunshine. After suitably imbibing, and deciding absolutely every red wine we tried had notes of chocolate and cherry, we wandered back to the centre along the promenade on the river. Bordeaux has made huge investments to the city, and this area certainly showed this. The tram line stops all the way along it, and shops and restaurants have established themselves along the riverfront for the perfect setting for sundowners and al fresco dining.
Day 3:
Accommodation: AirBnb in central Bordeaux
Activities: More sight-seeing, Le Marché des Capucins (south Bordeaux) and a bit of shopping on Rue Saint-Catherine
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you will be hard-pressed not to find an eye-catching, historic building in Bordeaux. Places you should certainly put on your list are:
Porte Cailhau – dating to 1494, this beautiful gate was built in celebration of Charles VIII’s victory over war with Italy, and was the main entrance into medieval Bordeaux.
Porte Cailhau Bordeaux
The Basilica of Saint Michel (which boasts an excellent flea market every Sunday, full of odds and sods and gorgeous vintage art, furniture and décor items)
Place de la Bourse and the Miroir d’Eau
La Grosse Cloche
Bordeaux Cathedral
Esplanade des Quinconces
Place de la Victoire
Other nice places are the Grand Theatre and the Jardin Public, but you really can just meander around the city’s cobbled streets and happen upon a historic monument.
We ended up walking to Le Marche des Capucins via an indirect route in order to sight-see most of the above landmarks and to work up an appetite…
Le Marche des Capucins is a big bustling food hall offering a cornucopia of every cuisine you could ask for, as well as fresh and dry foods. We timed our visit there for lunchtime, but I think I’d have found room for something even if I’d eaten a 10-course meal.
We ended our impromptu walking tour of the city on the Rue Sainte-Catherine. This is one of Bordeaux’s main shopping streets in Bordeaux, and runs right down the middle of the city. The side streets leading off of it are also worth a nose around for independent boutiques and wine shops.
Day 4:
Accommodation: AirBnb in central Bordeaux
Activities: Wine-tasting tour of the Medoc region
One of the activities we didn’t pre-book, but knew we wanted to do, was a wine-tasting tour of the region. The reason we didn’t pre-book was because if you google “wine-tasting tours of Bordeaux”, there are so many results and as we knew nothing about wine, and had no set itinerary, we wanted the flexibility. Now, this might be something, if you go in the busier months, that you might want to consider booking ahead as I can imagine these tours are in high demand.
We found ours through Bordeaux’s tourist website (Bordeaux Tourism), and it was excellent. We opted for the Afternoon in Medoc tour, which included guided tours and wine tasting at two Chateaux in the Medoc region, plus some nibbles. Our guide was very knowledgeable and friendly, and there were only 6 of us. I think this is the tour we did: An afternoon wine tour in Medoc, but don’t quote me on that.
Day 5:
Activities: Downtown Bordeaux
On our last day we booked lunch at Garopapilles, in downtown Bordeaux. This is the northern part of the city-centre, and is a quieter area with high-end boutiques. Garopapilles is a Michelin-starred restaurant, and we opted for the lunchtime tasting menu. We wished we had discovered it earlier, as it was very easy-going and relaxed, and also sells some amazing wines. It’s one we will definitely be booking for our next trip.
Sip & Babble 